In the Papers

A visit to South West France has given Iain Macfarlane a vision of chocolate heaven – and a taste for the region’s delights which extend beyond its wonderful confectionery.

Those clever French chocolatiers of Bayonne are not only masters of their delicious craft, but clearly blessed with hearts of gold. Why else would the French town’s renowned “Musée du Chocolat” be next door to the magnificent Cathedrale Ste. Marie at the heart of the Gothic quarter?

A sip of the hot, homemade, frothy, South American chocolate drizzled with vanilla or cinnamon from a tropical island is enough to send the senses into overdrive. One tingling taste of “Chocolat mousse” lovingly blended one of the 11 traditional chocolate makers still based in the small, but sweet-toothed, town both soothes and revives even the weariest of travellers.

But then the guilt complex kicks in. A moment on the lips, a lifetime on the hips and all that. Handy then that the chocolate makers made confessing your sins so easy. Stumble ten paces, licking your lips as you go, enter the “big house” and freely confess to having over-indulged in the local product or pray for the next diet to work. 

If a deadly sin is going to grab to you, than death by chocolate is definitely the way to go in this part of the world. Yet – pleasant though a fortnight spent in a town which would make Willy Wonka envious can be – it would be an extravagant waste of a visit to South-West France.

Jammed in by the crashing Atlantic breakers on one side, rolling fields and vineyards inland and the majestic Pyrenees separating France from Spain to the South this is a holiday destination of contrasts.

The glitz of Biarritz – a mini Monte Carlo with an inclusive stunning beach instead of an exclusive marina – is the jewel of the region. Bayonne, the administrative heart of the region is historic and calorific. And the picture postcard resort of St Jean de Luz is as proud of its Basque identity as it is of its art deco beachfront, working harbour and meandering old town, to explore the French Basque region, the clan Macfarlane pitched camp with holiday experts Eurocamp in the five-star Yelloh! Holiday Park at Labenne Ocean.

Just 12 miles up the coast from Bayonne and at the heart of Europe’s surfing paradise, the site is one of  the most popular  in the growing Eurocamp portfolio which now beasts 150 sites in 12 countries. Housing a truly fantastic water complex with slides, lazy river and four separate pools – one for grown-ups who like a swim and don’t take kindly to dodging inflatable crocodiles and rubber tyres – this is an excellent base for any family trip to the region. Hotels may look appealing and easy for family breaks, but more often than not they can be restrictive with small kids and Eurocamp destinations such as Labenne with top-notch facilities and space to relax are now more than a match.

A 20-minute walk to the beach within half an hour’s drive of St Jean de Luz, Biarritz or Bayonne and yet if you chose to sit tight the fortnight could easily be eaten up staying within the park.

Play tennis, boules, swim, slide and snorkel to your heart’s content. Use the multi-gym. Hire a bike and pedal safety on the cycle paths which flank every road in the area. Scoff ice-cream and drink beer in the bar if you fancy.

Even just pill up a seat outside your luxury holiday home, open a book and chill under the pine trees which give the park shade from the heat of the summer. Biarritz is smart and has a feeling of luxury and wealth.  It was once the favoured resort of the French aristocracy and royalty after all. Queen Victoria paddled in the sea lapping the foundation of the splendid Hotel du Palais built as a holiday home for Napoleon III’s wife Empress Eugenie and now one of the Leading Hotels of the World.

The Grande Plage really is stunning with swimmers hurling themselves into the breakers which crash into the shore and make surfing a hot activity in this region. Aged cliffs cut away to reveal hidden bays and harbours just a few hundred yards south of the main beach and stunning headland walks give you a chance to gaze across at Biarritz, the king of beaches and the beach of kings.

Because of the driving distance from Scotland to the South of France a fly-drive option is becoming very popular and with Biarritz airport now a destination for Ryanair from its Stansted hub it’s also handy and cheap.

The French staff at the campsite were well into the World Cup party spirit this summer as Spain, Brazil and then Portugal were humbled and face-painting in red white and blue became mandatory on nights of wild celebration.

You can’t help but think that if only Zinedine Zidane had spent some relaxing time in this region before the tournament then maybe he wouldn’t have lost the plot in the final against Italy.

Perhaps the 1,200 chemicals naturally produced by the cacao beans used by the Bayonne chocolatiers – including the mood regulating serotonin – would have given him an inner peace of steer France to real glory.

Then again perhaps not. But I suppose if the chocolate hadn’t worked for him then he wouldn’t have had far to go to pop into the cathedral and beg for some forgiveness.